Skater surf check and the At Dusk Edit
My skater story....
Skateboarding burst into my quiet life the summer Heather Alley, my first surfing guru, best friend and neighbor, invited me to stay with her in Southern California. I had just started surfing that year, and Heather was not only my best friend, she was also the raddest surfer I knew. We grew up in the lava fields of Kau on the island of Hawaii, and lived down dirt roads, where bmx bicycles were our wheels.
I learned that Heather was honing her barrel riding skills by skating in the summers. On the smooth pavement of Redondo Beach, where I joined Heather and her dad Jerry for that summer, longboard skating provided a new kind of freedom.
After this SoCal hiatus of slow turns and long rides along the strands, I returned home to the Hawaiian islands with a custom timber skateboard, new trucks and durable wheels ready to roll- even if on the gravel.
Lucky for me, and my new found passion, my family and I moved to Kailua Kona where the roads were paved. It was here on the slopes ofour active volcano Hualālai that I met a crew of surfing skaters, and took to skating down hills. This style of skating was a far cry from the kind of 'cruising' I had enjoyed with Heather on the promenades of LA.
Skating turned into an obsession for adrenaline, and ceased being a from of cross training for surfing. Together with my crew, we would take turns 'bombing' (or skating down) steep hills, doing big carves and grabbing our rails. Standing casually, or crouching low and fanging it straight to the bottom of the hill with as much speed as your body or board could handle, was the thing to do.
Bombing down hills for me is what I imagined riding a rocket-ship would feel like. Neither before nor since have felt so recklessly alive. The thrill of warbling out of control as I flew past oncoming traffic was nothing short of Insane, in a really good way. As you can imagine it wasn't long before I had some major stacks, and gained battle wounds or tarmac tattoos which, like that passion for going fast, are with me for life.
A few more rotations around the sun, crazy near collision experiences, and new surfboards later, my stake board now lives a much slower life. No longer the fastest sled in my quiver, itenjoys gentle rolls along even surfaces to sidewalks when no one is around. Skating continues to have a bloody-knee soft spot in my heart, and even though I don't carve down volcanic hills anymore, the joy of the ride still thrills me.
The At Dusk Edit
These photos were taken by my talented friend Chris Prestidge from @atdusk it was a fun and pretty flat afternoon when Joel Fitzgerald and I caught up with Chris. We skated around and checked the surf with a few of Joel's beautiful sleds. If you follow me on instagram you may have seen a few of these photos before. Chris took so many beautiful shots that day, I decided it was time to share my favorites, so here it is; the Skater surf check and At Dusk Edit :)